17th May 2018
Weather: Sunshine, blue sky with some milky haze. Cool breeze until warm evening.
After leaving the restaurant and partway back, I realised that the bill was too small to have included the dessert. The feeling of guilt … but I really didn’t realise.
The campsite owner called me a “crazy MF” , and shook my hand when we talked of the quest. Told me of the out of date guidebooks- no campsite in next village, Lothersdale (it’s on the OS map) pub does no food. Good decision last night!
The tent was very wet with condensation this morning: hanging it up, I could have filled a mug as it ran off. So despite up at 6.30 it was some faff drying the tent & packing away. My experiment for breakfast of a tin of beans and pre-cooked packet rice actually worked well enough (shop in Cowling last night).
Set off 08:45. A lovely hike uphill looking back to the previous downhill, had me thinking of those sheds (yesterday’s text updated if this is a mystery to you).
Spoke to a heavily laden North-to-South PW walker who was positively enthusiastic about carrying a 50lb pack despite the blisters.
On Pinhaw Beacon it was 360-degree panorama. Pendle Hill, the Settle/Malham limestone escarpment, the peaks of Ingleborough, Whernside, Pen-y-ghent, then over to Kirkby Lonsdale. Or so I guessed. I also saw a weasel run across the path: only the second time I have ever seen one.
Shortly after Thornton in Craven I caught up with Californian Louis (a different campsite owner asked me last night if I was Louis). He too is suffering blisters, though with a modest pack. He was inspired to walk the PW 25 years ago when he met “a couple of old guys walking it”. He is doing it now he’s retired. Inspiration just passes down the generations. Shortly after I spoke to another chap who walked PW years before, just after retiring. He said he felt so good at the end he wanted to turn around and walk back again.
Stopped at Dalesman cafe in Gargrave for cheese & bacon toastie. Food for tonight, all of which added up to an hour at least & then another 2 hours to Airton, across green fields and riverside on a warm evening, where I am in a Quaker house bunk barn. One other person in, sharing a 6-bunk dorm.
I shall always remember this as “shed valley”
I have ruthlessly destroyed dandelions in my garden for years. They will now forever remind me of this walk, so I may have to cultivate a pot or two
Pinhaw Beacon and a zoom-in on Pendle
The three Peaks of Yorkshire panorama from Pinhaw
Louis on the canal before East Marton
Wild garlic in full flower
The cake display in The Dalesman Cafe
Local fisherman at work
Tonight’s foot treat
Here’s the planned track to Gargrave on ViewRanger