23rd May 2018
Weather: Cloudy until midday, intermittent sunshine with a cool wind. Blue sky and warm sunshine, still with cool wind.
This extraordinary weather continues, having already substantially dried out what was regarded for years as a notoriously boggy route (hence the paving and duckboards). To begin the day: moorland and riverside, with the high fells to either side capped with cloud. Then a climb to Cauldron Snout waterfall that flows from the reservoir above. As they had predicted at breakfast in MIT: Alan & Neil arrived at Cauldron Snout as I sat eating. Having looked at my blog comments they pointed out that they are friends of Phreerunner. Small world, with Martin having many walking friends.
Yet more moorland led to the delight of the day: the view along the length of the U-shaped valley of High Cup Gill, with its rocky cliffs, dropping towards the plain of the Eden Valley. Beyond that, the misted silhouettes of the Lake District mountains. I sat just off the edge, amongst the rocks, sheltered from the wind for a full half hour. Further down another long stare out across the Eden Valley. A comfortable sunny evening sitting on the green in peaceful Dufton listening to birdsong.
In the hostel: two men I had first spoken with at Top Withins who were also camping at Ickornshaw. I talked with Bruce & Gaye in the Stag at Dufton who had followed me across the moors today: very experienced long-trail walkers.
A 4-bed dorm all to myself
View from near Langdon Beck hostel
These are the yellow flowers in meadow
Holwick Fell (looking South)
Looking West near Falcon Clints
Looking West near Maize Beck
High Cup Nick
High Cup Gill
Cooling the foot. I have decided that the symptoms fit a diagnosis of plantar fasciitis (arising gradually, earlier pain in Achilles’ tendon, micro tears and association with obesity: given my body started carrying around an additional 7kg of weight for 49 days of full-time walking)
Eden Valley & distant Lakeland fells
Hawthorn in flower